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                  <text>Late Antiquity 3/29 - Dumbarton Oaks</text>
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                <text>Bezel of a Marriage Ring&#13;
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                <text>Constantinople&#13;
Late 4th to Early 5th Century&#13;
1.1 cm (7/16 in.)&#13;
gold&#13;
BZ.1953.12.61</text>
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                <text>disk from the Bezel of a Marriage Ring with profile busts of a Man and Woman Facing Each other to either side of a cross&#13;
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                <text>Early Byzantine&#13;
7th century&#13;
8.9 x 8 x 3.8 cm (3 1/2 x 3 1/8 x 1 1/2 in.)&#13;
gold&#13;
BZ.1938.66&#13;
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                <text>Images of wild animals were often used on jewelry and regalia in the ancient world. They could symbolize the wearer’s strength or character or connote status within a group, whether within a ruling elite, a religious cult, or a social status. This elaborate bracelet with elegant leopards may have signaled one of the latter categories. &#13;
&#13;
Pairs of standing or leaping leopards are a widespread motif in Roman art. The leopards were frequently placed symmetrically to either side of a krater, a bowl for mixing wine with water. In this context they connected Dionysos, the god of wine, to the triumphant hero Dionysos, who conquered India, symbolized by the leopards. Alternately, the dazzling bracelet may have evoked Dionysos for his connections to marriage, religious rites, or eternal life, in that he was considered to be a god of salvation. &#13;
&#13;
The bracelet may be connected to similarly-designed jewelry. An outstanding example is a fourth-century gold ring with leopards supporting a gemstone carved with a personification of Victory, now in the Walters Art Museum (accession no. 57-1114). The ring probably served as an insignium of office, which suggests a possible function for this unique bracelet. As for its date, the motif of confronted leopards was found on works of art from the first century onwards, while pairs of other confronted animals appear on jewelry mainly in the fourth and fifth century, supporting a late Roman date for the bracelet. &#13;
&#13;
The natural movement of the leopards is incorporated into the design. The leopards support an openwork platform with a high bezel, which perhaps originally held a large cabochon gemstone. The forepaws of the leopards are attached to the platform by hinges which can pivot open when the pin at the base of the leopards’ feet was removed. The sophisticated construction of this unparalleled bracelet is as ingenious as it is elegant. &#13;
S. Zwirn</text>
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                <text>Child’s Tunic&#13;
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                <text>Egypt, 4th–10th c.&#13;
H. (warp) 51.0 cm × W. (weft, sleeve to sleeve) 53.5 cm (20 1/16 × 21 1/16 in.)&#13;
Tapestry weave in polychrome wool with embroidery in polychrome wool&#13;
BZ.1970.46&#13;
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                <text>This small, largely intact tunic features added decorative elements in tapestry weave and embroidery on a brown ground; there is significant soiling throughout the fabric. The neckline and sleeves of the tunic feature remnants of tapestry-woven decoration in red with crisscross details in beige. A small cross in light pink, pink, green, light blue, and blue is embroidered just beneath the curved neckline. The back of the tunic, near the neck, is similarly embroidered. There are small holes throughout and elements of patching, especially along the bottom.&#13;
&#13;
The tiny size of this tunic indicates that it was for an infant or toddler; the particular style of the neckline, which is cut open and reinforced on the right side, accommodated a small child’s head, and was probably once buttoned. The condition of the tunic suggests it was well-worn in life, and possibly repaired in antiquity. With their red ground and beige motifs, the decorative elements of the neck and sleeves reflected popular styles of adult dress, which in turn emulated silks (see BZ.1953.2.6 for further discussion). The placement of the embroidered crosses, likely added on at home, over the child’s neck and back were probably intended to have a protective function.&#13;
&#13;
—Elizabeth Dospěl Williams, May 2019</text>
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6th century (?)&#13;
2.2 cm (7/8 in.)&#13;
gold&#13;
BZ.1953.12.3&#13;
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                <text>with Christ, Bride, and Groom&#13;
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early 7th century&#13;
43.2 x 20.3 x 1.9 cm (17 x 8 x 3/4 in.)&#13;
gold and lapis lazuli&#13;
BZ.1928.6</text>
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                <text>Standing in a blue shell, Aphrodite Anadyomene wrings seawater from her hair. The pose was well known in antiquity, referring to the goddess’s birth from the sea, of which the deep blue color of the lapis lazuli is a visual metaphor. The harmony of references—pose, shell, deep blue color, and the sea pearls on the short chains—displays the jeweler’s ability to adapt a venerated mythological image to the luxury materials of elite taste during the early Byzantine period. &#13;
&#13;
The delight and fascination with exquisitely crafted jewelry were undiminished at the end of late antiquity, and the appreciation of Greco-Roman mythology, even the most lascivious of all its goddesses, continued well after the Byzantine Empire had become an officially Christian society. Aphrodite’s fame as the goddess of beauty and physical desire are expressed by her seminudity and enhanced through the precious gold, lapis lazuli, and pearls of the necklace. Yet it might have been a magical property of the image that accounted for the figure’s allure. Amulets and charms, whether costly or cheap, had been worn for centuries as effective means of personal protection or for controlling the actions or emotions of other people. This elegant necklace may have been such an amulet (apotropaion), either against pervasive malevolent spirits or as a charm to grant an erotic wish. &#13;
&#13;
S. Zwirn&#13;
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                <text>Necklace with Pendant of Aphrodite Anadyomene (2)&#13;
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                <text>Pair of Crescent-Shaped Earrings&#13;
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                <text>Early Byzantine&#13;
late 6th-7th century&#13;
3.2 cm x 2.5 cm (1 1/4 in. x 1 in.)&#13;
gold&#13;
BZ.1952.13.1-2</text>
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                <text>Crescent-shaped earrings were the most popular style of Byzantine gold earrings in the sixth and seventh centuries. The jewelry was formed from sheet gold using the openwork technique, by cutting away the background and leaving the image as a positive in silhouette. The surface could then be engraved with details, as the surface is here, creating a more reflective and sparkling effect. Peacocks are shown in profile, facing each other on either side of an amphora. Peacocks were one of the favored images among the openwork earrings, others including generic birds combined with a fountain or a cross in the center. This style of earring was frequently edged as this one is, with beading and often with additional punch work and globules. &#13;
&#13;
Peacocks had been used as decorative motifs for many centuries in pagan Roman and Christian art. They were attractive not only because of the associations with their luxuriant and colorful plumage but also because it was believed that the flesh of these exotic birds did not decay after death. The peacock was therefore a symbol among pagans, gradually adopted by Christians, of immortality and of life after death in paradise. &#13;
S. Zwirn&#13;
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